SAMAYA x SÉBASTIEN MAFLIN

 

 

Sébastien Maflin, a climber, photographer and videographer, traveled to Madeira in November 2023 to complete a solo and completely self-sufficient crossing of the region. A fall halfway through forced him to turn back. In this article, Sébastien shares his planning for his trek and bivouacs, and his perspective on failure.

 

"I had spotted a trail circuit that starts in the north of Madeira and goes down to the southeast of the island. I redrew this track to ensure I wouldn't be following trail paths, so that I could be alone. My route went through summits, coasts, and took me across areas with vastly different climates and atmospheres. From the seaside with its heavenly black sand beaches to very humid areas close to the jungle or even much more arid zones: I wanted to cross it all.

 

There is what we call the Banana Line, which is the zone above which nothing grows and where it is cold. It's quite peculiar because below it, you are bathed in a tropical climate, and once you cross this barrier of clouds, you find yourself on ridges flooded with absolutely incredible sunsets, with the impression of floating mountains.

 

I set off in total autonomy. I had a filter pump so I could drink water from the rivers, I had all my food rations with me, my sleeping bag, my mat, my tent, and my photo and video equipment. All of that fit into my 16-kilogram pack; I had never been so light. The lightness of the Samaya INSPIRE2 tent was greatly appreciated.

 

I would get up when the sun woke me, and after a quick breakfast, I would walk all morning without a break until lunch. In the afternoon, I would set off again until I found a place to set up my bivouac. I would start by looking a little at my map for areas with less relief, keeping a 3-kilometer margin and immediately ruling out segments that were too steep or too windy. The Samaya INSPIRE2 doesn't take up much space, which makes it easier to find the right spot. I was thus able to sleep in the hollow of a valley, in the heart of a forest, and at the summit of a pass where I endured a wind and rain storm. I was impressed to have such a good, dry night's sleep."

Being alone didn't bother me at all; on the contrary, that's what I was looking for. However, I was surprised to find myself stressed about a lack of water. The streams indicated on my maps were not necessarily as accessible as they looked. Several times, the rivers were actually obstructed under rocks, making it impossible to fill my water bottle. I had to manage this daily stress that I hadn't imagined.

 

At the end of the third day, I slipped toward the end of the ascent of Pico do Ariero. I tried to regain my balance, but the weight of my backpack carried me away and my knee twisted, causing a ligament injury.

 

When I got up the next morning, I couldn't put weight on my leg. I had to hike back down by shifting my weight onto my poles.

 

I told myself I would wait a few days to see if I could restart from where I had stopped, but it was impossible. Sometimes you have to know when to call it quits.

 

Failing to reach a goal is part of this kind of project. You have to avoid second-guessing yourself too much; these are situations that happen, especially in the mountains, and from which you must know how to make the best of. In the moment, frustration takes over, but it is important to take it philosophically."