Starting the winter bivouac: advice from Christophe Dumarest

A fundamental trend among mountaineers and "riders", the winter bivouac is more than ever synonymous with a change of scenery and freedom. Set up your own base camp, even in a nearby massif, being particularly popular since the arrival of the pandemic. But beware, during the winter season, the rules induced by the cold, the short days and the thickness of the snow impose special logistics. Christophe Dumarest, athlete, guide and technical adviser to Samaya® reveals the tips and tricks for a successful bivouac, even in the most rigorous conditions.

Many of us dream of a frosty trip at altitude, to a destination near or far, for one or more nights under the stars. It remains to organize it well. Far from being daunting, this phase, which is a matter of strategy, contributes to the ascent in its upstream phase: it tends to maximize two key factors – safety and comfort – which will make it possible to achieve the expected objectives.
Once the equipment has been gathered and the first night has passed, it is likely that others will follow very quickly in stride... Snow has this magic in that it radically transforms the perception of a landscape that we thought was familiar. Even without going very far, the contrast is radical. The winter bivouac is an inexhaustible source of wonder. A unique experience, likely to fit vertically on the timeline of time.

We do not compromise on the quality of the material.

Already in summer, the experience of solitude, silence and raw beauty shape the memory of a night spent under the stars. This contemplative nocturnal memory often takes precedence over that of the day's action in the mountains. What to say in winter, when the adventure lies primarily in the simple fact of sleeping outside?

Choose and furnish your tent.

But for a happy and timeless memory, there is no question of compromising on the quality of the material, starting with the tent. There are models that are light, reliable, comfortable, but also easy to assemble and store when the wind, the cold and the snow invite themselves. True "rooms with a view", these products allow you to concentrate on the essentials and enjoy all the intensity of the winter bivouac.
To furnish your new bedroom, keep in mind that the floor mat, too often underestimated in favor of down, is the guarantor of the quality of your sleep. The more efficient and insulating it is, the better the night will be.

Beyond comfort, certain tools related to safety can be misused during the installation of your bivouac.
Essential for safety – from the moment you step outside on or at the foot of snowy slopes of more than 30°, your DVA “Avalanche Victim Detector” kit, shovel, probe can also be used to set up your tent. The probe, to check that the land is free of crevices and the shovel, to build a low wall or dig a cold pit.

The floor mat, too often underestimated in favor of down, is the guarantor of the quality of your sleep.

Don't skimp on the quality of the stove.

Among the equipment of the winter bivouac, the stove occupies a central place. It is he who will allow you to melt the snow into water.
There are two main families of stoves. Petrol stoves and gas stoves.

Gasoline, they are considered more economical and fuel is easier to find abroad. They are also easier to repair and work very well in extreme cold. And even if they have good resistance to cold, they nevertheless turn out to be dirtier, less reliable and ultimately less practical.

With gas, they are easier to use, extremely light and offer the best performance. A yield that drops rapidly with low temperatures. Heating the bottle before use is necessary and prefer butane/propane mixtures or even better isobutane/propane for winter use.

In contrast to summer, it is imperative to greatly increase the amount of fuel. The cold as well as the need for water and hot dishes upset the references established by summer weather. A mini board or better still a small foam cover around the gas cartridges will significantly increase their performance. The colder the gas cartridges, the more efficient they will be. Some apses thus offer suspension hooks for the stoves, which remains the best way to gain insulation.

Finally, in case of long roaming or important commitment, an emergency stove can be useful, as well as a second lighter. As with your smartphone and batteries, keep them against your chest.

Dress well, from head to toe.

Prefer warm merino wool underlayers to combine warmth and comfort, but also feather for the top and if possible for the bottom, because the cold comes from the feet, the head, but also the legs.

Gloves of different sizes and spares will allow you to understand the temperature scale without losing your dexterity. There are silk ones that can be kept permanently or mittens that turn into mittens if necessary. Woolen gloves retain heat even when wet, but have great difficulty drying; they are therefore less and less popular.

For a 5-star base camp: from installation to contemplation.

The installation of the base camp is part of the millennial know-how of the pioneers. It is also a whole section of the Himalayan culture that invites itself to the heart of the Alps. At a time when the journey takes on as much value as the ascent itself, the winter bivouac is adorned with new letters of nobility, including for the best "riders" on the planet who seem more and more seduced by the meaning and history associated with their descents.

Find the right location.

The location of the base camp must be a favorite, but also a peaceful haven allowing you to sleep in complete serenity. The objective risks related to the bottom of the slopes, the foot of the cliffs or the too marked hollows are obviously to be taken into account.
On the glacier, it is best to be roped in, the time to probe the ground to ensure that it is free of crevasses. Your skis will allow you to pack the ground, flat if possible and wide enough to be able to guy the structure and allow you to move around comfortably.

Set up your bivouac.

If your tent is not sheltered from the wind and if the weather forecast requires it, it may be wise to build a low wall, cover the skirts with snow and seriously guy it out with poles, skis or pegs. ice. Make sure, however, that the ground will not freeze overnight, which would make their extraction difficult to dismantle.
Once the additional vestibule has been installed, take the time to dig a cold pit at the entrance to trap the icy air (which migrates downwards) and thus gain a few interior degrees. This cavity will improve comfort and habitability when entering, equipping yourself, but also cooking.

Protect yourself from the cold.

The cold comes from the ground. In addition to a thick ground sheet, some reinforce the insulation with an empty rucksack, ropes and anything else that can cut out the cold coming from below. Also take care of aeration and ventilation, essential to prevent condensation and therefore frost inside your tent and ensure proper air renewal during the night.

Get in order.

A little order and method avoid the dispersion of the equipment and contribute to preparing well for the next day. The apse allows nothing to be left outside at night, including helmets, ice axes and crampons. They could either fly away or be buried. At night, the shoes are warm in the tent and everything that should not freeze will remain inside the duvet. Gas and burner can be "warmed up" in the morning a few minutes before use. The only way to dry gloves and other socks is to keep them close to the skin, not far from the first layers and this throughout the night. Finally, when you go to bed, a metal bottle is the best hot water bottle, it can save you from complicated conditions by giving you a few extra degrees.

It is also a whole section of the Himalayan culture that invites itself to the heart of the Alps.

Once the location of the base camp has been chosen, the tent set up and the equipment in place, what remains to be done? Nothing if not (re)connecting to nature. The tent is this symbolic tool that allows you to move from action to contemplation, a real luxury to taste another relationship to time. Raise your head, your "five-star" tent is set up under a sky of several billion stars.

That's it, there you are.

Get back to basics.

The practice of the mountain has the virtue of marking contrasts and of instilling a fairer and sometimes more conscious vision of simple actions which, "down below", are automatic. Eating and drinking at altitude are always eagerly awaited. Most often through a tenacious hunger and a devouring thirst, the sensations associated with these vital needs have nothing to do with those felt in the valley.

Remember to drink, and drink again.

It is advisable to always keep water in reserve and to melt the snow as soon as possible. Inside the tent, containers and other bottles should not freeze. A large waterproof bag is useful for storing plenty of snow without having to constantly move around. The compression bag of your tent can be used for this purpose. Drinking hot before going to bed helps to supplement the hydration that is often lacking in the mountains, but also to increase internal heat when lying down.

Eat rich, salty and sweet.

Caloric consumption associated with cold and effort is important. With the drop in temperatures, it is rich, well-salted and fairly sweet foods that are appreciated. Simple, mash-based, quick-cooking freeze-dried products are more popular than those with too complex and too spicy tastes.
Although sketchy, the preparation of dehydrated dishes can be missed. To avoid this, the water must be boiling and the dish kept tightly closed, warm, inside your down jacket.
Extras – vegetarian or not, milk-based or not, sweet or savory – will also be welcome and will have a direct impact on your good mood!

At altitude, sleeping well is essential to be fully operational and significantly increase your chances of success in the event of ambitious climbs.

"However beautiful the day, the night comes in its turn"

A good tent, a comfortable mattress and a suitable duvet are the keys to a quality rest. At altitude, sleeping well is essential to be fully operational and significantly increase your chances of success in the event of ambitious climbs.

Synthesis between rigor and intensity, the bivouac in winter conditions takes on an additional dimension. Life outside has this ability to put us back in our rightful place and imposes a healthy humility. Faced with the perception of immensity, particularly significant in winter, wonderment imposes itself and offers a powerful gateway that connects to the happiness of the present moment.

From these experiences comes gratitude. Perhaps a new door to earthly paradise. Far from the prevailing discourse inviting to constantly accumulate and devote one's energy to quantifiable actions, we think as "conquerors of the useless" that dedicating one's time and talent to ascents, as beautiful as they are futile, is essential.

"Ascending, feeling, writing", such is the formula of Pyreneism which reminds us that without a story, there is no adventure. How not to share the small bursts of light and the lessons gleaned from the detour of the summits? And because we also believe at Samaya® that imagining, practicing and sharing are the three sides of the same mountain, we devote all our energy to dreaming, acting and making it known. You are warned, going to bivouac this winter can lead to a form of dependence. After your first night under the stars, Samaya® declines all responsibility if you want to start again...